Why is termite control in the garden essential?

Termites are fascinating social insects that play a crucial ecological role in the decomposition of organic matter, contributing to nutrient cycling and the health of ecosystems. However, when they decide to settle in our carefully planned gardens, these tiny insects become highly destructive pests capable of causing significant damage in a short time.

The presence of termites in gardens represents a silent and often invisible threat until the damage becomes apparent. Imagine investing years cultivating a garden, planting trees that grow majestically, installing wooden decks for leisure moments, only to discover that a termite colony has been tirelessly working for months damaging roots, attacking lawns, consuming the structural wood of pergolas, and compromising the stability and safety of ancient trees and urban furniture. The problem is real, and understanding its magnitude is the first step in protecting your investment.

Contrary to what many imagine—and a common misconception that needs to be dispelled—, the problem with termites in gardens is not limited to wooden structures such as benches, fences, or decks. Various species attack plant roots, penetrating deep into the soil, compromising the plant bases, or even climbing trunks to establish nests in the tree canopies, away from unsuspecting eyes. This diversity of behavior requires specific and ongoing management measures, adapted to each particular situation.

Come learn with a technical and detailed approach, to help in the accurate diagnosis, effective prevention, and proper termite control in the garden.

Types of termites found in gardens and how to identify them

Did you know there are over 3,100 described termite species worldwide, classified into 12 families?

Each of these species has different feeding habits, ecological preferences, and social behaviors. In gardens, where biodiversity meets human intervention, three major groups deserve special attention as they are the most frequently found and potentially the most harmful. Understanding these differences is essential: after all, you wouldn’t fight an ant the same way you would fight a beetle, right? The same principle applies to termites.

Subterranean termites

These are, undoubtedly, the most frequent and dangerous underground inhabitants of your garden. Living completely below the ground, in a complex network of galleries that can extend for tens of meters, these termites build true subterranean highways — ingeniously constructed tunnels and galleries — through which they travel protected from light, temperature variations, and predators, until they reach their food sources on the surface.

One of the most aggressive and feared species is Coptotermes gestroi (Asian Subterranean Termite), originally from Asia and sadly well adapted to the tropical urban areas. This termite is not picky: it feeds on both green and dead wood, but it has a particularly devastating predilection for the heartwood of living trees—the central, structural part of the trunk that provides strength and stability to the plant. Imagine a tree that appears perfectly healthy on the outside, with a vigorous crown and abundant foliage, but inside, it is being gradually hollowed out. The result? Severe structural compromise, risk of toppling, and, in extreme cases, accidents that can involve people and property.

The major challenge with subterranean termites lies exactly in detection: their nests are completely invisible on the surface, hidden at varying depths in the soil. The presence of these colonies is usually identified only when there are considerable damages — hollowed wood structures that sound empty when tapped, or by the careful observation of earth galleries attached to tree trunks, walls, and even climbing up the external walls of buildings. These galleries, which look like small tunnels of dry mud, are the protection system that the termites build to move safely between the underground nest and the food source.

Mound Termites (or Epigeal)

Have you ever noticed those hard mounds of earth, sometimes reddish or grayish, that appear in fields, vacant lots, or even in less well-maintained flower beds? These are the nests of mound termites, also popularly known as pasture termites or epigeal termites. These insects construct visible and impressive nests, veritable fortresses of hardened clay that can reach considerable proportions — some can exceed one meter in height and shelter millions of individuals.

Although less common in typical residential gardens, termites become extremely problematic in vast areas with high aesthetic value, such as impeccably maintained golf courses, landscaped slopes in luxury condominiums, formal beds in public squares, and historical gardens. The presence of mounds not only compromises the carefully planned aesthetics of these spaces but also hinders maintenance operations such as mowing and can indicate a robust and rapidly expanding population.

Controlling these termites involves a combination of methods: the physical and mechanical destruction of the mounds (which must be done carefully to not just spread the colony), the complete removal of nest material, and the localized and targeted application of insecticides directly on the remaining structure and the surrounding soil, reaching the deepest chambers where the queen is protected.

Arboreal Termites

Look up the next time you walk through a park or a wooded garden. Those rounded, usually brown or grayish structures attached to tree branches are not necessarily bee, stingless bee, or wasp nests. They could, in fact, be nests of arboreal termites—species that have chosen to live at heights, forming suspended colonies built strategically on branches, between tree bifurcations, or in natural cavities of the trunk.

From a distance, especially to untrained observers, these nests can be easily mistaken for beehives or even natural accumulations of leaves and dry branches. Arboreal termites usually live in a relatively harmonious relation with the host plant, feeding primarily on cellulose accumulated in cavities, dead tissues of the tree itself, or decaying plant material that accumulates in the bifurcations. However, the balance can be disrupted: when nests grow too large—some can reach the size of a soccer ball or larger—the additional weight on the branches can cause entire limbs to fall, particularly during strong winds or heavy rains, posing a risk to those passing beneath the tree.

The special case of the genus Syntermes

A case that deserves special attention from anyone who cares for lawns in the tropical America. Have you ever noticed yellow patches on your lawn that appear mysteriously, circular areas where the grass seems to lose vigor and wilt for no apparent reason? Before you rush out to buy fungicides, consider this possibility: it might not be a fungal disease, but rather an infestation of termites from the genus Syntermes.

Very common in lawns, especially in tropical and subtropical regions, Syntermes termites build relatively low and discreet nests, resembling small mounds or subtle elevations in the soil, which can go unnoticed until the damage becomes evident. Their action is predominantly superficial, attacking roots and the base of grasses, causing symptoms that are often confused with classic fungal diseases—such as brown patch caused by the fungus Rhizoctonia solani or leaf spot caused by Curvularia.

This similarity in symptoms demands extra attention and rigorous criteria in diagnosis. A mistake in identifying the real cause of the problem can lead to the inappropriate and wasteful use of agricultural pesticides: you might spend time and money applying fungicides to a problem that is caused by insects, without achieving any effective results. Therefore, the correct differential diagnosis—distinguishing termites from fungi—is an absolutely crucial step before any intervention.

The Australian case: grass-harvesting termites

In northern and arid Australia, patches of turf and native grasslands can develop bare, sharply edged circles not from fungi but from grass-harvesting termites—chiefly the endemic genus Drepanotermes (and, in some areas, Amitermes). These colonies clip and collect dry grasses, leaving grass-fringed, vegetation-free discs that are easily mistaken for classic turf diseases. Their nests are often low and discreet (pavements just below the surface), and workers may forage by day in hot, open sites—so the damage can appear quickly during dry periods. Before reaching for fungicides, consider termites in the differential diagnosis.

What to look for: repeating circular clearings in open, sunny lawn sections; subtle, hardened “pavement” crusts under the bare spot; and, on excavation, chambers containing grass chaff—tell-tale evidence of harvesting and storage behavior. Correct identification matters: misdiagnosing termite activity as a fungal blight leads to wasted fungicide applications and no improvement. If circles persist or expand despite fungicide use, inspect the soil profile for pavements/nests and consider targeted termite management instead.

Correct Diagnosis: Termites or Fungi?

Every gardener has asked themselves at least once: “The lawn is turning yellow… but what is causing this?”

One of the major practical challenges in controlling garden termites is precisely distinguishing the origin of the observed damage. In lawns, for instance, symptoms such as progressively expanding yellow patches, subtle soil depression when walked on, and a generalized loss of vigor may stem from both fungal (pathogens attacking the roots and plant tissues) and entomological (insects feeding on the same structures) causes.

The fundamental difference lies in the cause and, consequently, in the appropriate treatment. Applying fungicide to an area infested with termites is as ineffective as applying insecticide to an area attacked by fungi — you do not solve the problem, waste resources, and may even worsen the situation by creating conditions favorable to other secondary problems. Therefore, before taking any action, it is crucial to conduct an accurate and well-founded diagnosis.

To safely reach this diagnosis, follow these methodological steps:

1. Collection of material for laboratory analysis

When there is suspicion of problems in the garden, especially in situations where the symptoms are ambiguous or when the investment in the area is significant, it is strongly recommended to send samples of the affected soil and the symptomatic plant to a specialized phytopathological laboratory. Many public universities, agronomic research institutes, and private companies offer this service at costs much more affordable than one might imagine.

Microscopic analysis carried out by trained technicians can precisely identify the presence of characteristic fungal structures — hyphae (the ‘filaments’ that make up the body of the fungus), spores (the reproductive structures), mycelium, and other pathological evidence. On the other hand, the analysis can also definitively confirm the absence of any fungal pathogens, directing the investigation towards entomological causes. This initial investment in diagnosis can save a great deal of money and time in subsequent treatment.

2. Detailed physical inspection of the soil

If you prefer a more immediate and practical approach, there is a simple yet effective field technique that any gardener can execute. Armed with a long knife (such as a bread knife), a sturdy gardening spatula, or even a sharp spade, make careful vertical cuts in the soil right in the areas showing visible symptoms — the yellow patches, the depressed points, or the areas where the grass seems less vigorous.

Open the soil in sections, as if you were ‘slicing’ a cake, exposing the subsurface layers.
The unmistakable presence of organized tunnels, galleries branching out in the soil, or termites visible to the naked eye—especially early in the morning (between 6 AM and 8 AM) or at dusk (between 5 PM and 7 PM), when they are most active and closer to the surface—is a clear and definitive indication of infestation by Syntermes or other ground termites. You might even observe the insects themselves moving, taking advantage of these times of lower solar incidence and cooler temperatures to forage.

3. Observation of Indirect Revealing Signs

Termites may not always be visible during inspection, but they leave unmistakable clues to their presence. Learn to read these signs:

• Grass that sinks when stepped on: Walk slowly over suspicious areas. If you feel the ground slightly giving way under your feet, even when the grass seems visually healthy and green, this could indicate that termites have burrowed just below, creating chambers and galleries that make the ground less compact and more susceptible to sinking.
• Visible paths on the soil surface: Look closely at the surface of the lawn, especially in the early hours of the morning when dew is still present. Look for subtle trails, small linear elevations, or “paths” that appear to be made of aggregated soil, similar to the trails ants make, but generally wider and with a different texture. These are the protected tunnels that termites construct on the surface.
• Presence of soldiers with dark heads: This is a particularly important diagnostic sign. If you can see the termites directly, pay close attention. The soldiers—the colony’s defensive caste—from the genus Syntermes have a distinctive feature: dark heads (usually brown or black), significantly larger and more robust than those of the workers (the smaller, lighter-colored individuals who do the foraging work). The presence of these soldiers is an almost certain signature of Syntermes.

4. Specialized Consultancy: When to Seek Professional Help

If, after all these investigations, you still have reasonable doubts about the nature of the problem, or if the infestation seems particularly severe and out of control, it is highly advisable to seek qualified technical support. Contact universities that have agronomy or entomology departments, regional agricultural research centers, or even companies specialized in urban pest management that have a qualified technical leader.

Many academic institutions offer entomological identification services simply by sending samples (usually some specimens of the insects preserved in 70% alcohol, accompanied by photos of the location and a description of the symptoms). Accurate species identification is not just a scientific fancy: it is absolutely essential for choosing the best control strategy, the most suitable product, the correct dosage, and the most efficient application method. After all, different species respond differently to available treatments.

Control Strategies for Each Type of Termite

Now that you know how to identify which type of termite is invading your garden, it’s time to act strategically. After the accurate identification of the termite species — a step that cannot be skipped or underestimated —, the definition of the control strategy must consider multiple factors:

• the specific biology of the insect (life cycle, feeding behavior, social organization),
• the type of nest it builds (subterranean, epigeal, arboreal),
• the depth at which the colony is active,
• and, not least, the current legislation regulating the use of chemical products in urban and residential environments.

It is fundamental to understand — and a concept that many gardeners are unaware of — that effective and lasting termite control is not simply about the spot application of insecticides. This would be a simplistic approach and, in most cases, ineffective in the medium term. Proper integrated management requires the intelligent and coordinated combination of different types of actions: chemical (judicious use of insecticides), cultural (modifying the environment to make it less favorable to termites), physical (mechanical removal of nests, barriers), and in some promising cases, biological (use of organisms that parasitize or prey on termites).

Wood Termites: Professional Intervention is Essential

Let’s get straight to the point: if you have identified the presence of wood termites in your garden, especially species like the Asian Subterranean Termite (Coptotermes gestroi), it’s time to call the professionals. These termites live hidden within wooden structures—tree trunks, decks, pergolas, benches, fences—building a complex maze of hidden galleries and interconnected chambers that are not externally accessible. The main colony may be located several yards (meters) away from the point where you see the damage, connected by underground tunnels that go unnoticed.

Simply spraying pesticides superficially on the visible wood is completely ineffective. It’s like trying to extinguish a fire by throwing water only on the smoke—you do not reach the heart of the problem. The termites remain protected within the inner layers, and the colony stays intact, ready to continue expanding. Professional combat against wood termites involves specialized techniques and specific equipment:

• Strategic wood drilling: Trained professionals perform precise drills at strategic points of the infested structure, calculated to reach the main galleries and chambers of the colony. Through these access points, liquid or powdered insecticides (special formulations with ultrafine particles) are applied that penetrate deeply into the wood, reaching areas that superficial treatments would never touch.
• Use of fumigant gases in controlled environments: In cases of severe infestations, especially in valuable structures or historic buildings, full fumigation may be employed. The structure is completely isolated with waterproof tarps, and insecticidal gases are released, permeating every crack and gallery. This procedure requires specific certifications and rigorous safety measures.
• Products with residual action and domino effects: Modern third-generation insecticides do not immediately kill termites. On the contrary: they are formulated for slow action, allowing the contaminated termite to return to its nest and, through the natural behavior of trophallaxis (food sharing) and mutual grooming among colony members, spread the active principle to other individuals, including the queen. This is called the “domino effect”—one termite contaminates several others, who in turn infect more, leading to the gradual collapse of the entire colony.
• Continuous technical monitoring: Serious professional companies do not just apply once and leave. They install strategically positioned attractive traps and bait systems with slow-acting active ingredients (such as hexaflumuron, an insect growth regulator), returning periodically to monitor activity, refill baits, and evaluate the effectiveness of the treatment over months.

Soil and Lawn Termites: Localized Control and Monitoring

The good news is that lawn termite control can be carried out by gardeners themselves, provided they have technical expertise, adequate knowledge, and respect for safety standards. It’s not rocket science, but neither is it something to be done carelessly or impulsively.

The initial step, before any product application, is the careful and systematic marking of affected points in your lawn. Walk slowly through the area, observing carefully and marking with small stakes, colored flags, or marking spray all the places where you identify characteristic symptoms: circular patches of yellowed grass, visible presence of tunnels on the soil surface, and surface activity of soldier termites with dark heads. This marking allows you to apply the product in a targeted and efficient manner, saving input and increasing treatment effectiveness.

Active Ingredients for Termite Control

Neonicotinoids: Thiamethoxam

In the Americas, one of the most effective products for amateur gardening contains Thiamethoxam, a systemic insecticide belonging to the neonicotinoid chemical group. Thiamethoxam acts simultaneously by contact (when the termite touches the product) and by ingestion (when the termite consumes treated material), irreversibly disrupting the central nervous system, leading to paralysis and death. This mechanism is selective for insects, being significantly less toxic to mammals when used appropriately.

Products are typically available in convenient water-soluble sachets (40g/1.4 oz) that are ready to be diluted in water, eliminating the need for direct contact with concentrated product and providing pre-measured dosages for correct application. Consider thiamethoxam only if your local label lists termites in turf. In many markets it’s not labeled for this use, and some jurisdictions restrict consumer outdoor neonicotinoids.

Pyrethroids: Bifenthrin

Throughout the United States, Australia, and South Africa, Bifenthrin is one of the most widely used active ingredients for termite control. This synthetic pyrethroid works by interfering with sodium channels in the insect’s nervous system, causing rapid paralysis and death through direct contact, with a repellent effect.

Bifenthrin provides both immediate knockdown and long-lasting residual protection—up to 90 days or more when applied properly. The active ingredient binds tightly to soil particles, creating a protective barrier that termites cannot cross without lethal exposure.

Availability: In the United States, bifenthrin products are available in concentrations from 7.9% to 25.1% active ingredient (brands include Bifen I/T, Bifen XTS). In Australia, bifenthrin is registered with the APVMA at 100g/L concentration (MAXXTHOR, Zeus Termiticide, Surround Termiticide), with applications following Australian Standard AS 3660 for Termite Management. In South Africa, products like MAXXTHOR 100 provide multi-purpose termite and insect control.

Application: For lawn termite control, bifenthrin is typically diluted at 0.18 to 1.0 fl. oz. per gallon of water per 1,000 square feet of turfgrass, applied directly to soil using a pump or backpack sprayer, then lightly watered in. Use bifenthrin for termites in turf only where the label explicitly lists termites for lawn/turf and specifies the application method. Many products limit termite uses to structural or above-ground spot treatments.

Phenylpyrazoles: Fipronil

Fipronil is another highly effective active ingredient with proven efficacy against termites, available for both professional and limited residential use across the Americas, Australia, and Africa. Fipronil belongs to the phenylpyrazole chemical group and acts by selective blocking of chlorine channels regulated by the GABA neurotransmitter in the insect’s nervous system, causing hyperexcitation followed by paralysis and death.

The major advantage of Fipronil lies in its extremely prolonged residual action—it can remain active in the environment for up to 6 months under favorable conditions—and its ability to function at very low concentrations. A few parts per million are sufficient to cause mortality. Unlike bifenthrin, fipronil is non-repellent, meaning termites cannot detect it and will readily travel through treated soil, picking up lethal doses that they transfer to nestmates.

Availability: In many markets, fipronil formulations are primarily available for professional use, requiring application by certified pest control operators with qualified technical responsibility. In the United States, professional products like Termidor (9.1% fipronil) are industry standards. In Australia, fipronil is registered for termite management under strict protocols. When available for residential use, fipronil is most commonly found in ready-to-use liquid formulations or emulsifiable concentrates requiring dilution.

Application considerations: Due to its potency and persistence, fipronil use requires extra caution. Always apply strictly following manufacturer instructions, in areas with low permeability to groundwater (to prevent contamination), and never just before periods of heavy rainfall. Professional applications typically involve trenching and rod injection around structure perimeters to create a complete treatment zone.

Baiting Systems: Chlorfluazuron and Noviflumuron

For comprehensive termite management in the United States, Australia, and Southeast Asia, professional baiting systems offer an environmentally responsible alternative to liquid treatments.

Chlorfluazuron (Exterra/Requiem System)

Chlorfluazuron is a chitin synthesis inhibitor formulated at 0.05-0.1% in cellulose-based bait. The Exterra system uses in-ground monitoring stations installed around structure perimeters. Once termite activity is detected, wood monitors are replaced with Requiem Termite Bait containing chlorfluazuron.

When termites consume the bait, they cannot tell it contains a lethal ingredient. They continue feeding and sharing with nestmates through trophallaxis. The active ingredient disrupts chitin production, preventing molting and causing gradual colony decline. Colony elimination typically occurs within 8-16 weeks, depending on colony size.

The system has been extensively tested in Australia (particularly effective against Coptotermes acinaciformis), Thailand, the Philippines, Malaysia, and Pakistan, with colony elimination achieved using as little as 100-300 grams of bait.

Noviflumuron (Sentricon System)

The Sentricon Termite Colony Elimination System, widely used throughout the United States, uses Noviflumuron at 0.5% concentration. Like chlorfluazuron, it inhibits chitin synthesis, but noviflumuron was specifically engineered for urban pests and is classified by the U.S. EPA as a “reduced-risk” pesticide.

Sentricon stations are installed 10-15 feet apart around structures. The newer Recruit HD stations contain active bait from installation. Laboratory tests show termites prefer Sentricon bait nearly 10 times more than wood. Field studies demonstrate approximately 60% of colonies are eliminated within three months, 75% within six months, and nearly all within one year.

In 2000, the Sentricon System received the Presidential Green Chemistry Challenge Award from the U.S. EPA—the only termite control product to receive this honor. It protects national landmarks including the Statue of Liberty and Independence Hall, plus over 4 million homes worldwide.

Preparation and Application

For Thiamethoxam Products

Mixing ratio: Use thiamethoxam only where your local label explicitly lists termites for lawns/turf. Follow the label’s specified dilution and rate—these vary by formulation and jurisdiction. Do not adapt rates from agricultural products or other markets.

Application: Apply directly to the soil in areas of identified nests or tunnels—not on grass leaves. Use a garden watering can or backpack sprayer with a coarse jet nozzle. Avoid fine mist nozzles and windy or rainy days.

For Bifenthrin Products

Mixing ratio: Mix 0.18 to 1.0 fl. oz. of bifenthrin concentrate (7.9% formulation) per gallon of water per 1,000 square feet. For heavier infestations, use higher rates. Professional-grade concentrates (100g/L) require precise dilution following manufacturer specifications.

Application: Use a pump or backpack sprayer. Apply evenly to soil surface in affected areas, then water in lightly (4mm of water) to help penetration into the root zone.

For Fipronil Products

Mixing ratio: Professional fipronil products (such as Termidor at 9.1% concentration) are typically diluted at 0.06% to 0.125% finished solution. For soil treatment around structures, this translates to 4 gallons of finished solution per 10 linear feet per foot of depth. Residential formulations follow manufacturer-specific ratios.

Application: Professional applications involve trenching (6 inches wide, depth to footing) and rod injection at 12-inch intervals to create a continuous treatment zone. For lawn applications, apply to soil in affected areas using appropriate equipment. Due to environmental persistence, apply only in areas with minimal risk of groundwater contamination.

For Baiting Systems

Professional baiting systems require installation by certified technicians. For Chlorfluazuron bait powder, follow the label; a common mix is 100 g bait to 300–400 mL clean (unchlorinated) water. Noviflumuron systems use pre-loaded Recruit HD stations requiring no mixing.

Post-Application Care

For Liquid Treatments

• Supplementary irrigation: After 30 minutes, lightly irrigate with clean water to wash excess from leaves and help penetration into soil.
• Area isolation: Keep pets and children away for at least 24 hours. Use warning signs if necessary.
• Personal protection: Always wear nitrile gloves, protective goggles, and ideally a mask with organic vapor filter. Wear long sleeves and pants. Shower immediately after application.

For Baiting Systems

• Monitoring: Requires scheduled inspections every 2-4 weeks initially, then quarterly. Only certified technicians should inspect stations.
• Station security: Tamper-resistant lids prevent access by children or pets.
• Ongoing protection: Stations remain in place for continuous monitoring even after colony elimination.

Realistic Expectations: Results Timeline

Thiamethoxam: Residual effect of 50-150 days depending on weather, soil type, and temperature. Evaluate after 10-15 days; reapply if termite activity persists.

Bifenthrin: Provides 90-day protection for lawns, up to months or years for structural treatments. Reduced activity within 7-14 days; complete elimination takes 4-8 weeks. Annual inspections recommended.

Fipronil: Offers 6-month residual protection under favorable conditions. Non-repellent action allows for horizontal transfer between termites, enhancing colony-wide impact. Visible reduction in activity typically occurs within 2-4 weeks, with significant colony suppression within 30-90 days depending on infestation severity.

Chlorfluazuron (Exterra): Colony elimination typically within 4-16 weeks. Smaller colonies may be eliminated in 4-6 weeks with less than 300 grams of bait consumed.

Noviflumuron (Sentricon): Approximately 60% of colonies eliminated within three months, with most completely eliminated within 6-12 months.

Choosing the Right Approach

Liquid treatments (Thiamethoxam, Bifenthrin, Fipronil) are ideal for localized lawn infestations, quick knockdown of visible populations, and situations requiring immediate action. Bifenthrin offers repellent barrier protection, while fipronil provides non-repellent horizontal transfer for broader colony impact. Professional application is recommended for fipronil due to its potency and environmental persistence.

Baiting systems are preferred for complete colony elimination, long-term structural protection with minimal environmental impact, properties near water sources, and the most environmentally responsible option.

Professional consultation is always recommended to assess your specific situation, identify termite species, determine infestation extent, and select the most appropriate control strategy. Remember: termite control is not a one-time event but an ongoing management program requiring regular inspections and prompt action.

Biological termite control: reality or promise?

Have you ever imagined controlling termites using other living organisms instead of synthetic chemicals? This is the fascinating promise of biological control. Although it is still under commercial development and not widely available for the typical amateur gardener, biological termite control presents extremely interesting and promising alternatives for sustainable integrated pest management projects, especially on organic properties, ecological gardens, or in situations where the use of chemicals is restricted or undesired.

Entomopathogenic fungi: natural parasites of termites

Among the main biological agents currently under study and commercial development, species of fungi that parasitize insects, known as entomopathogenic fungi, stand out. Two of the most promising are Metarhizium anisopliae and Beauveria bassiana. How do these microscopic allies work? The spores of these fungi, upon contacting the termite’s exoskeleton, germinate, penetrate through the cuticle of the insect, and start growing internally, literally consuming the termite from inside out, causing its death by widespread systemic infection within a few days. It sounds perfect, doesn’t it? But there are significant practical challenges.
Effective application of these fungi requires very specific environmental conditions which are not always easy to ensure:

• Environments with high relative humidity: Fungal spores need moisture to germinate. Ideally, relative humidity should be above 80% for prolonged periods. In dry climates or during drought seasons, effectiveness drastically decreases.
• Absence of direct sunlight: Ultraviolet light from the sun is lethal to fungal spores, degrading them rapidly. Applications should be made at dusk or in shaded areas, and preferably in underground or protected nests.
• Moderate temperatures: The ideal range is between 68 and 82.4 °F (20 and 28 °C). Temperatures that are too high or too low inhibit the germination and growth of the fungus.

The biggest practical challenge, however, is of a behavioral nature. Termites are highly evolved social insects with sophisticated collective defense behaviors that hinder the establishment of fungal infection. Constant mutual grooming among colony members, where termites literally “clean” each other removing spores and foreign particles, and the immediate isolation of contaminated individuals (who are removed from the colony and discarded), act as a true “social quarantine” that significantly reduces disease transmission.

However, the important point remains: the use of entomopathogenic fungi is extremely promising as a complementary action to chemical control in an integrated management program, especially for maintaining low population levels after a more aggressive initial chemical treatment.

Entomopathogenic Nematodes

Another fascinating group of biological control agents are entomopathogenic nematodes—microscopic worms that parasitize insects. Microorganisms from the genera Steinernema spp. and Heterorhabditis spp. have been successfully tested in both laboratory and some field trials against subterranean termites.

How do they work? These nematodes have a fascinating life strategy: they carry within them highly pathogenic symbiotic bacteria to insects. When the nematode encounters a termite in the soil, it penetrates through natural openings (mouth, anus, respiratory spiracles) and releases these bacteria into the insect’s body cavity. The bacteria multiply rapidly, killing the termite by septicemia within 24 to 48 hours, and the nematodes feed on the tissues of the dead insect and reproduce, producing thousands of new nematodes that exit in search of new victims.

It looks promising, but applying nematodes in the field requires precise technique and very specific soil and moisture conditions. Nematodes are delicate organisms that die quickly if exposed to dehydration or extreme temperatures. They are not yet widely available to the amateur public depending on the location, but they have been successfully used in some professional biological management programs in commercial reforestation, high-standard golf courses, and sustainable corporate landscaping projects.

Natural and Homemade Alternatives: Myth or Real Efficacy?

Are there really effective homemade solutions against termites? For gardeners who prefer to avoid the use of synthetic chemicals—whether due to personal conviction, environmental concerns, having children and pets who frequent the garden extensively, or simply desiring a more natural approach—there are indeed some alternative approaches that can be tried. But let’s be honest and realistic: the efficacy of these alternatives is generally limited in the case of termites and, in most cases, palliative or preventive, rarely being sufficient to control already established and severe infestations.

That said, in initial infestations or as a complementary measure to other strategies, some of these alternatives may have value. Let’s look at the main ones:

Attractive Traps

An old but still valuable technique is the attractive trap made with cellulose-based materials. How does it work? It’s surprisingly simple: take pieces of corrugated cardboard (like those from moving boxes, with the inner ‘waves’) or small pieces of untreated wood (pine, plywood), moisten them generously with clean water until they are well wet (but not so soaked as to disintegrate), and partially bury them in the soil in areas where you suspect termite activity, leaving a part exposed.

Why does this work? Termites are strongly attracted to cellulose, which is their preferred food, especially when it is moist and starting to decompose. They naturally converge on these artificial structures, seeing them as an easy and abundant source of food. After a few days (usually 3 to 7 days, depending on the intensity of the infestation), you carefully remove the trap—which is now full of concentrated termites—and completely incinerate it, destroying the entire population that was captured.

This technique is more useful for monitoring (to confirm if there are termites in the area) and for gradual population reductions than for definitive control.
Think of it as a ‘fishing’ for termites: you won’t eliminate the entire colony at once, but you can significantly reduce their numbers over time with repeated and persistent applications.

Essential oils with insecticidal action

In recent years, scientific research has been investigating various plant oils for their repellent and toxic effects against insects, and some of the findings have been quite encouraging, albeit with significant practical limitations. Among the most studied for use against termites, the following stand out:

• Neem oil (Azadirachtin): Extracted from the seeds of the neem (Azadirachta indica) tree, this oil has a complex systemic action. Azadirachtin, its main active ingredient, acts as an insect growth regulator, interfering with the ecdysis process (molting of the exoskeleton) and affecting reproduction. When applied to surfaces or mixed with soil, it can have a repellent effect (termites avoid treated areas) and, at higher concentrations, cause direct mortality. It is especially useful in prevention.
• Clove oil (Eugenol): Eugenol, an aromatic compound present in high concentrations in clove oil, has neurotoxic action in insects, causing paralysis of the nervous system. Applied directly to termites in laboratory tests, it shows high mortality. In the field, however, its volatility (it evaporates quickly) and the difficulty of getting the product to reach the termites inside the galleries limit its effectiveness.
• Citronella oil: Widely known as a mosquito repellent, citronella oil also has a repellent effect on termites, although without significant toxic action. It may be useful in preventive applications, such as treating uninfested wood or creating olfactory barriers around areas you want to protect.A truth that needs to be told: these products are much more useful for prevention than for controlling already established infestations. If you have an active colony with thousands of individuals, essential oils will probably not be sufficient.
  But if you are performing preventive maintenance, treating new wood, or protecting areas that have been recently managed, they can be a valuable part of your strategy.

Prevention: How to Prevent New Outbreaks

Prevention is undoubtedly the most important, most effective, and most economical pillar in managing termites in the garden. Think of it this way: it is much easier, cheaper, and less labor-intensive to prevent termites from establishing than to fight an already established and active colony, with thousands of individuals spread over tens of square meters (about hundreds of square feet). Some relatively simple cultural practices can significantly help reduce the risk of infestation. Let’s look at them:

• Avoid accumulation of poorly decomposed organic matter: That pile of pruned branches that you left “resting” in a corner of the garden for months? Those dry leaves accumulated against the wall? Those fallen logs you think are “decorative”? All are open invitations for termites. Decomposing organic matter is exactly what they look for. Remove it regularly, or if you want to make compost, keep the compost pile well managed, away from structures, turned frequently, and at an adequate temperature (above 140°F (60°C) at the center of the pile), which discourages termites.
• Maintain good soil drainage: Termites love moist environments and waterlogged soil. Areas of the garden with poor drainage, where water accumulates after rain or irrigation, are particularly vulnerable. Fix drainage issues by installing French drains, adjusting the leveling of the ground, or improving the soil structure with the addition of sand and well-decomposed organic matter to increase porosity.
• Eliminate stumps from dead or rotting trees: That stump from the tree that was cut down two years ago and was left there? It’s practically a “five-star hotel” for subterranean termites. Stumps should be completely removed, including the main roots, or treated chemically to accelerate complete decomposition.
• Use pre-treated woods: If you are installing a deck, pergola, fence, bench, or any wooden structure in the garden, invest in woods that have been treated in an autoclave with approved preservatives, like copper, chromium, and boron salts (CCA or CCB). These woods are pressure-impregnated with products that make them extremely resistant to attacks by termites, fungi, and other xylophagous organisms, dramatically prolonging their lifespan.
• Periodically inspect vulnerable structures: Make visual inspection a routine. Every three to four months, dedicate a few hours to carefully examine all wooden structures in the garden, large pots (especially those made of coconut fiber or wood), decks, pergolas, and raised planters. Look for signs of mud galleries, hollow wood, fine powder (termite feces), or small holes on the surface. Early detection makes control infinitely easier.

Legal aspects of using insecticides in gardens

When addressing pest control such as termites, it is essential to understand the restrictions imposed by your country legislation regarding the use of chemical products in gardens and residential areas.

Regulations & label compliance (read this first)

Short version: Always follow the product label and your local rules. Pest-control products for lawns may be restricted to professional use in some places, and what’s legal for “home garden” in one country may be prohibited in another. When in doubt, hire a licensed pest manager.

Two-minute pre-check

• Right site? The label explicitly allows use on lawns/turf or garden soils (not just agriculture or structures).
• Right user? The product is approved for home garden use in your region (some labels are professional-only).
• Right target? Termites/soil pests are listed as target pests and the application method matches the label.
• Right protections? Wear the PPE on the label and respect re-entry intervals and buffer zones.
• Right timing? Avoid heavy rain/irrigation that could move the product off-site.

Regional snapshots (one-liners)

• United States: Labels govern; some states restrict consumer use outdoors. Check state/local rules in addition to EPA labels.
• Canada: Federal registrations exist, but several provinces limit “cosmetic” lawn uses. Verify provincial/municipal bylaws.
• United Kingdom & Ireland: Outdoor home-garden options are limited; many termite treatments are professional-only.
• European Union: Active ingredients and uses vary by member state; consumer lawn uses are often narrowed or unavailable.
• Australia: Turf products exist, but many labels target professional turf; confirm “home garden” permission on the label (APVMA).
• New Zealand: Products may have specific controls or be professional-only; confirm scope with the NZ EPA label.
• South Africa: Check DAFF/NRCS registrations; availability for home lawns may differ from structural termite products.

Editor’s note: This article is informational and not legal advice. Regulations and labels change—always check the current label and your local regulator’s database before purchase or use.

Consequences of Inappropriate Use

Inappropriate use of agricultural products in urban and residential settings is not only technically improper—it can have serious and multiple consequences:

• Environmental contamination: Agricultural products, generally more concentrated and persistent, can contaminate the soil for very long periods, reach groundwater through leaching, and affect domestic and wild animals that frequent the garden (birds, lizards, frogs, hedgehogs— all helpers in the natural control of pests).
• Health risks: They can cause acute poisonings (when there is intense exposure at once) or chronic (when there is repeated exposure to low doses) in people who frequent the garden, especially children playing on the lawn, the elderly with compromised immune systems, and pets that have direct contact with the treated soil.
• Legal implications: Unauthorized or improper use of restricted pesticides can constitute serious violations of environmental protection laws and public health regulations in most jurisdictions. Violations may result in administrative sanctions (substantial fines potentially reaching tens or hundreds of thousands in local currency), civil liabilities (legal obligation to repair damages caused to third parties, neighboring properties, or ecosystems), and in severe cases, criminal penalties including imprisonment. Professional applicators operating without proper certification, homeowners misusing restricted products, or applications that result in environmental contamination or harm to non-target organisms face the most serious legal consequences.

Because of all this, careful and attentive reading of the label and the leaflet is an absolutely non-transferable responsibility of anyone involved in the control of urban pests, whether professional or amateur. Do not purchase products without proper registration. Do not accept “miraculous solutions” that involve restricted use products. Your health, your assets, and the environment will thank you.

Professional Alternatives

Pest control companies, registered with the Regional Councils of Chemistry, Environment, Health or Agronomy and with a responsible technician, can use more potent formulations, provided that they are in controlled environments and with the proper protective equipment, area isolation, and correct disposal of residues.

Sustainable termite control demands technique, prevention, and continuity

Termite control is not a one-time event, a “war” that you win once and for all. It is much more like a marathon, an ongoing process that requires vigilance, patience, and perseverance. Termite control, especially of subterranean species that live in colonies with millions of individuals spread over large areas, requires systematic periodic monitoring.
To be truly effective and sustainable, this process requires:

• Accurate pest diagnosis.
• Careful selection of tools and products.
• Adherence to current legislation.
• Implementation of good landscaping practices.
• Engagement of skilled professionals.

When properly managed, integrated termite management protects both the aesthetic and functional investment in the garden, ensures the health of the plants, and prevents structural damages. Well-maintained gardens, with balanced flora and monitored soil, are naturally less attractive to these pests, ensuring beauty and safety for many years.

Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

1. How much does professional treatment cost?

Professional termite control costs for lawn and garden areas vary depending on treatment method, property size, and infestation severity. Liquid treatments (bifenthrin, fipronil) for localized lawn control typically range from $200 to $500 for average residential lawns (5,000-10,000 square feet), with full perimeter treatments around structures costing $800 to $1,500 initially.

Professional baiting systems (Sentricon, Exterra) involve higher upfront costs of $1,200 to $3,000 for installation, plus annual monitoring fees of $300 to $500, but provide comprehensive long-term protection with damage warranties. While DIY treatments may cost only $50 to $150 in materials, professional service ensures proper species identification, correct application, legal compliance, and often includes warranties—potentially saving thousands in damage repairs and avoiding costly environmental violations.

2. Can termites enter the house from the garden?

Yes. Subterranean termites can build tunnels from the soil to house structures, especially if there is contact between the soil and the foundation. External control helps protect the internal environment.

3. What is the difference between termites and ants?

Although they look similar, ants have a narrow waist and bent antennas. Termites have a uniform body and straight antennas. Moreover, termite wings are equal in size, while in ants, the forewings are larger.

4. Does the treatment harm other plants?

Correctly applied insecticides in the soil, such as Thiamethoxam, do not affect the roots of ornamental plants. However, it is important to avoid applications near sensitive plants or species pollinated by bees.

5. How long does it take to eliminate an infestation?

The effects start from 1 to 3 days after the product application. Expect visible suppression in days to a few weeks for localized liquid treatments; colony elimination via baits typically requires weeks to months depending on product, species, temperature, and feeding. Monitoring is essential to prevent reinfestations.

6. Can I manage the control myself or do I need a professional?

Infestations in lawns can be controlled by the gardener himself, using products registered for amateur gardening. However, wood termites require professional intervention with appropriate equipment.

7. Is the product toxic to bees?

Yes. They are highly toxic to bees. Therefore, they should be applied directly to the soil and outside of flower visitation hours, preferably in the late afternoon. If possible, schedule treatments for non-flowering periods.

8. How to prevent termites from returning?

• Eliminate decomposing organic matter.
• Use treated or synthetic woods.
• Regularly inspect trees, walls, and flower beds.
• Keep the soil drained and free of excessive moisture.

9. What is the best pesticide to kill lawn termites?

The best pesticide for lawn termites depends on your site and goals. Fipronil (e.g., Termidor) is widely regarded as a top professional soil termiticide because it is non-repellent and can be transferred among termites, with long-lasting soil residual (months to years depending on label, soil and conditions).

Bifenthrin is a solid choice for both professional and (where allowed) DIY use, providing fast knockdown and a repellent barrier, with residual typically on the order of 8–12 weeks; it’s widely available in products like Bifen I/T in the US and MAXXTHOR in Australia.

Thiamethoxam is a systemic neonicotinoid used in turf for other pests; in many markets it is not labeled for termite control in lawns, so only recommend it where the local label explicitly lists termites. For colony elimination (not just localized suppression), professional bait systems using noviflumuron (Sentricon) or chlorfluazuron (Exterra) are highly effective, often achieving elimination within a few months, depending on species and conditions.

The most robust programs pair a targeted liquid treatment for active hotspots with long-term baiting for sustained protection—while avoiding placing baits too close/too soon after liquid applications to prevent “death-zone” interference. Always follow the label, wear appropriate PPE, and consider a licensed professional for species ID and treatment design.

10. Is there a homemade treatment for lawn termites?

The use of cardboard traps can reduce the population, but does not replace the treatment with registered insecticides. Home treatments rarely reach the colony and are of limited efficacy.

11. Do lawn termites attack house wood?

No. Lawn termites, such as those in the genus Syntermes, feed exclusively on herbaceous plant matter. They do not pose a direct risk to wooden structures.

12. Do lawn termites bite or sting?

No. Termites do not have stingers nor do they have a habit of biting humans or animals. Even the soldiers with larger jaws use them only for colony defense.

13. Do termites only attack dry wood?

No. Some species, like Coptotermes gestroi, also attack green and living wood, especially the heartwood of trees. Additionally, termites can feed on roots, plant fibers, and even buried cardboard.

14. Does vinegar eliminate termites?

No. Vinegar is not effective in eliminating termites or their colonies. It may have a momentary repellent effect, but does not have a proven insecticidal action against these pests.

15. Do termites die in winter?

No. Subterranean termites remain active all year round. Cold weather only reduces their activity, but does not eliminate them, as their colonies stay protected underground.